Day 21 Dent to Kirkby Stephen

One of the nice things about wandering about as we are doing is that we come across the same wanderers from time to time. We also have a chance to chin wag with others who are having their own adventures. Some, like a group of Australians we met today, having completed the coast to coast walk threw their walking boots in the bin forever. Still others, like a family living in Malta who love trains but have none at home were looking forward to the Ribblehead viaduct, all have interesting stories to tell.

Having ground our weary way up to Dent Station yesterday we were delighted not to have to do it again today. We left Dent Station via the coal road turning right as we left the station yard.

We had no idea that the coal road went up and up. Luckily for us our heavy packs were sitting in our youth hostel bedroom. Today only one back at a time felt the weight of water, some cheese, some blister plasters and sun cream. This lack of encumbrance meant good and cheerful progress towards Garsdale, our first target.

We have noticed that the river beds here seem to be made out of eroded concrete. I’m sure that this is a peculiarity of nature rather than the hand of man but it does look odd.

After Garsdale we climbed upwards and made our way to an old drovers road. After the initial climb the road was flat and soft. We could feel the odd drop of rain but welcomed its refreshing coolness. Lunch was a simple affair of cheese and other stuff eaten as we sat on rocks. The rain began in earnest more or less after we had finished the cheese. I didn’t think that we needed rainproof clothing today, Janet thought otherwise so at least we had coats but nothing else. I suppose the rain lasted for half an hour or so. From head to waist we were dry, from waist to ankles soaked.

We spotted this monument on a hill. I have no idea what it might mean. There was nothing to indicate its function or creator.

It looked as though we might be out of luck in the breakfast department again this morning so were feeling a little sad. I found some eggs and attempted to boil them in a frying pan. I found it tricky to get the water to boil so left the eggs in the hottish water for about 15 minutes. As the day wore on we began to flag. All was well for the first 15 miles or so but then we needed rest. Janet had one chocolate egg left and sat down to eat it. The joy with which she devoured the egg reminded me of my own genuine egg. I found the egg and started to peel it. A previous egg had been nearly cooked so I expected the same from the second egg. When the white ran down my wrist as I removed the shell I knew that only Janet would have the pleasure of an egg today.

So here we are in Kirkby Stephen. A traveller’s caravan parked in the main street managed to entertain motorists trying to get home. This week has been the Appleby Horse Fair so quite a few travelling people are about. To complete the rustic vision Crook Morris did a few dances outside the pub as we ate supper. Now for a shower, some beer and bed ready to do it all again tomorrow.